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"Brezza is definitely an estate to keep an eye on, and readers should give these fine wines very careful consideration." Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate. Wine Advocate # 182 Apr 2009
Enzo Brezza makes single-vineyard Barolo, Dolcetto and Barbera from a handful of family-owned and farmed parcels in Barolo. Enzo has tenaciously held on to his family's heirloom Barbera and Dolcetto vineyards in Barolo despite strong commerical pressure to replant the vineyards to Nebbiolo (which he could market as Barolo and sell for 2-3x as much money).
The combination of low-yielding, old vines and the Barolo terroir lends length, sap and the unmistakeable warm, earthy-autumnal truffle-like character of Barolo to Enzo's soulful and pure Barbera and Dolcetto. Brezza's single-vineyard Dolcetto "San Lorenzo" (Matt Kramer called it 'one of the best Dolcetto's of 2006') and the freakishly Barolo-like Barbera "Cannubi" are sleepers in every sense of the word and represent some of the best values in REAL Piedmontese wines that we've tasted. Thanks to importers Joe Mirretti and Bob Heelan, Chicago-area Piedmontese wine lovers can see what all the fuss is about.
This is a mouthwatering lineup:
Matt Kramer writes: "Dolcetto d'Alba "San Lorenzo" 2008, from Brezza, is one of the finest dolcetto wines you're likely to drink. Its reveals precise scents and tastes of wild cherry allied to the almond note characteristic of the variety, as well as a minerality that derives from the Cannubi vineyard. Such a quality is exceedingly rare in a dolcetto. Although dolcetto is famously a drink-now red, this wine will age beautifully for upward of a decade."
Kramer: "Here again, the minerality of the great Cannubi vineyard shines. This is a stunning barbera, a red wine of uncommon character and assured longevity. It, too, features a "glass cork." This ranks among the best barberas in my experience and deserves its $24.95 asking price."
Antonio Galloni: "The 2005 Barolo Cannubi reveals spiced red cherries with lovely inner perfume and sweetness that carries through the mid-palate and onto the long finish, where floral notes provide a beautiful bookend. There is a wonderful classiness and freshness to this mid-weight Barolo. Brezza's vines in Cannubi are next to those of Einaudi. The estate purchased the plot in 2002 after renting the vineyard for a number of years. In terms of its personality, the Cannubi is similar to the Castellero but it is more deeply spiced than that wine, which is defined by a floral personality. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025." Wine Advocate # 182 Apr 2009 Antonio Galloni 91pts Drink: 2010 - 2025 $75 (75)
